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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.